Ashland, heat, and volcanoes

July 2018

Goodness me, Julia and I are off on another road-trip. It seems we just got back from our Silver Lake road-trip and we are off on our next adventure. This time we head due north to Lassen Volcanic National Park to explore what remains of a rich hydrothermal site with acres of bubbling mud pots. The summit of Lassen Peak Volcano will offer us views over the vast forested surrounding wilderness. Nearby, the Devastated Area is littered with lava rocks from its last eruption. We’ll trek a network of trails through forest and around several lakes and walk on parts of the Pacific Crest Trail. Boy, oh! Boy I can’t wait.

From here we head out of California and further north onto Ashland in Oregon. We’ll spend time in America’s Shakespeare factory-town. We look forward to experiencing the Bard’s Love’s Labor’s Lost in the fiery hot and dry center of Oregon State.

We’ll then head west via Grant Pass and onto Crescent City. Here we’ll hike the remaining 4% of California’s old growth Redwood forests on our very favorite hike through Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park.

Returning south we’ll drive on a flow of electrons to Sheltered Cove, which is perched on the edge of California’s beautiful, northern, and rugged coastline.

Our last stop will be at Van Damme State Park on the magnificent Mendocino coastline. I think we might walk one of my favorite hikes through the superb forests of Russian Gulch. Who knows we might even visit a winery or two in the Anderson Valley on our way home. Stranger things have happened.


Sierra Nevada, Traversing

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Routes Traveled

For almost eight years now Julia and I have been traversing and exploring the Sierra Nevada from west to east and back again. We plan to take all the east west crossings there are, but figure this will take quite some time. We’re not in a rush.

So far, we have made the following crossings and incursions in to this mighty range of mountains.


Hwy 80

We have traveled 80 many times now all the way into Utah and back. This drive across the Sierra Nevada is nice, but certainly not the most splendid.

‣ Hwy 50

We’ve traveled the loneliest road from Utah to California, and it is surely very, very lonely. The drive on this road through the Sierra Nevada is spectacular and offers magnificent views of Lake Tahoe.

‣ Hwy 88

We just completed this crossing through the wonderful mountains and the views of granite peaks, mangled volcanic conglomerate rocks, and deep green forests is without comparison. Silver Lake, Kirkwood ski resort, and Thunder Mountain will welcome you as you take this road.

Hwy 4

So much spectacular scenery on this drive you’ll want to stop and take pictures constantly. It is the place to hike Wolf Creek, which is a Sierra wonderland of a place and fills me with marvelous memories.

Hwy 120

This beautiful drive takes you over the top of the Yosemite Valley and surrounds you in the most amazing granite the Sierra Nevada can offer. There are many small and remote lakes not far from the road that are all worth hiking to.


Kings Canyon

Redwood Mountain Grove is a nine-mile hike and picturesque location. It is noted as the world’s largest remaining forest of Sequoiadendron gigaremainin (Sequoia trees). Sounds awesome, and it was!

Yosemite Valley

What can I say about the Yosemite Valley that has not already been said except, if you haven’t visited this place you simply must.

Given what fun we’ve had so far, we’d like to continue our crossings and incursions of these magnificent ranges and add the following routes to our list:

‣ Hwy 178

‣ Hwy 155

‣ M-50

‣ Hwy 190

‣ Hwy 180

‣ Hwy 168

‣ Hwy 41

‣ Hwy 108

‣ Hwy 49

‣ Hwy 70

‣ Hwy 36

‣ Hwy 299

As you can see there is much to be explored and discovered. We’ll keep you posted.

Exploring Greenland and the Dolomites

We try once again

Yes, Julia and I are trying for the third time now to make landfall and explore Greenland. We tried for the first time back in 2013 to visit this remote place and were thwarted by ice-flows. Then in 2017 we tried again and were not able to land due to severe weather. So, here we are again planning our third attempt at visiting this allusive place.

We decided to combine our long-planned trip to hike the Dolomites in Italy with this Greenland adventure and what follows is our planned itinerary. Let’s hope all goes to plan this time.

Oakland, USA

Oakland stands out as an important industrial port city in California and as one of the most important centers of African American culture. With its large downtown area and its industrial charm, Oakland reminds somewhat of some cities in the east coast like Pittsburgh or Baltimore.

Gatwick, England

London’s second airport, also serving a large spectrum of places world-wide. It is the world’s busiest single runway airport and is split into a North and South Terminal. The two terminals are linked by a free shuttle train.

Reykjavik, Iceland

Reykjavík is the capital and largest city of Iceland and with an urban area population of around 200,000, it is the home of many Iceland’s inhabitants. It is the center of culture and life of the Icelandic people as well as being one of the focal points of tourism in Iceland. The city itself is spread out, with sprawling suburbs. The city center, however, is a very small area characterized by eclectic and colorful houses, with good shopping, dining, and drinking.

Neerlerit Inaat Airport, Greenland

Depart Reykjavík for a flight to Constable Point (Neerlerit Inaat Airport) in Greenland, a small airfield west of Hurry Inlet in Jameson Land. Embark the sailboat and get an introduction and a safety briefing by the crew before sailing towards the village of Ittoqqortoormiit, one of the most isolated villages in the world. There will be a brief visit, where passengers are able to stroll around and experience the tranquility associated with its remoteness

Ittoqqortoormiit, Greenland

Ittoqqortoormiit, formerly known as Scoresbysund, is a settlement in the Sermersooq municipality in eastern Greenland. Its population is 452 as of 2013.

The former name Scoresbysund derives from the Arctic explorer and whaler William Scoresby, who was the first to map the area in 1822. The name “Ittoqqortoormiit” means “Big-House Dwellers” in the Eastern Greenlandic dialect. The region is known for its wildlife, including polar bears, muskoxen, and seals.

Hekla Havn, Greenland

Sail west between whole palaces of icebergs that gently drift under the influence of the currents in the Arctic waters after calving from the parent glaciers originating in the Inland Ice. Anchor at Hekla Havn, on Denmark Ø, the site of an old Inuit settlement and wintering camp of the first scientific expedition to Scoresby Sund over a hundred years ago. The day ends with a short evening walk exploring Hekla Havn and the surrounding area.

Rødefjord, Greenland

Sail west through the narrow Føhnfjord with the majestic basalt mountains of Gåseland on the port side and 2,000 meters high sheer granite cliffs of Milne Land on the starboard side. After being up close to the peculiar looking Red Island and even landfall at the red sandstone shore, the tour continues to the north through Rødefjord which is often filled with both larger icebergs and ice crust from icebergs that are breaking up. We will arrive in Harefjord in the late afternoon where anchors are set.

Harefjord, Greenland

We’ll make sure to pack our hiking boots because the entire day is spent ashore in Harefjord scouting for muskoxen, snow hares, grouse, geese and other wildlife, which normally graze on the south-facing slopes. This easy to moderate approx. 6-hour hike takes us on top of a ridge where we will have lunch with a breathtaking view over Harefjord, where the terrain drops down on each side and the glacier tongues descend into the sea. Those who prefer less exercise can stroll at the coast or stay on board enjoying the view.

Øfjord, Greenland

The sailing continues eastwards through the awesome Øfjord. This is one of the most spectacular parts of the trip. Terrific mountain peaks and granite walls tower 2,000 meters up from the sea just like if the Cerro Torre (one of the majestic mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America) and Fitzroy river (in Queensland, Australia) has been moved to the Arctic: A true feast for the eyes. Usually, the sea breeze in the Øfjord during the middle of the day allows sails to be set. A close look at some of the most amazing cliffs and a glacier front. This day ends by setting anchors in Jyttes Havn in the late afternoon.

Føhnfjord, Greenland

The day is spent hiking in and around Jyttes Havn in Bear Islands as this is possibly one of the nicest and most picturesque anchorages in Scoresby Sund. There are two options of a longer or shorter hike in the Bear Islands, or on the northernmost tip of Milne Land, a short zodiac ride away. Jyttes Havn is the place to try your skills at sea swimming at 71°N and temperatures can be as surprising as 13°C in the summertime. If conditions and time allow, we will tend a bonfire on the beach and share stories.

Bear Islands, Greenland

Sailing the channel between the Bear Islands and Milne Land with a breathtaking view of the spectacular archipelago. As we sail into the last evening and night of the trip it is likely that we’ll be experiencing sights of the largest and the most fascinating icebergs of the journey. This provides a fantastic opportunity for photographs of the majestic and impressive icebergs that are often found in this area. When we wake up the next morning we are anchored at the at the airstrip in Constable Point.

Neerlerit Inaat Airport, Greenland

The last morning, we will enjoy a good breakfast together, write in the diary on board and share contact information with each other. Then we will disembark the sailboat for the last time and board the aircraft in Constable Point and fly back to Reykjavík, Iceland. In Iceland, the adventures of the expedition begin to sync in and your life after Greenland begins!

Reykjavik, Iceland

Spend a few days recuperating from our adventure to Greenland.

Gatwick, England

Fly back to the United Kingdom.

London, England

Spend a few days in London visiting with friends and family.

Venice, Italy

The city is virtually the same as it was six hundred years ago, which adds to its fascinating character. Venice has decayed since its heyday and is heavily touristed (there are 56,000 residents and 20 million tourists per year).

Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy

Cortina d’Ampezzo, commonly referred to as Cortina, is a town and commune in the heart of the southern (Dolomitic) Alps in the Veneto region of Northern Italy. Situated on the Boite river, in an alpine valley, it is a winter sport resort known for its skiing trails, scenery, accommodation, shops and après-ski scene, and for its jet set and aristocratic European crowd.

Pocol, Italy

Pocol is a village and ski resort in the Veneto region of northeast Italy. The village is a località of the comune of Cortina d’Ampezzo, in the province of Belluno.

Carbonin, Italy

Hiking the Dolomites.

Canazei, Italy

Canazei is a commune (municipality) in Trentino in the northern Italian region Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, located in the upper part of the Val di Fassa, about 110 kilometers (68 mi) northeast of Trento. Its name derives from the Latin word cannicetus.

Canale d’Agordo, Italy

Canale d’Agordo (known as Forno di Canale until 1964) is a town and comune in the province of Belluno, in the region of Veneto, northern Italy. It has 1,230 inhabitants. Pope John Paul I (born Albino Luciani) and the landscape painter Giuseppe Zais were born in Canale d’Agordo. it has a Museum dedicated to Pope John Paul I called the Pope Luciani Museum.

San Pellegrino, Italy

San Pellegrino Terme is a comune in the province of Bergamo, Lombardy, Italy. Located in the Val Brembana, it is the location where beverage company San Pellegrino, and its carbonated mineral water drinks are produced.

Nova Levante, Italy

Hiking the Dolomites.

Molveno, Italy

Molveno is a comune (municipality) in Trentino in the northern Italian region of Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol, located about 40 kilometers (25 mi) northwest of Trento.

Ponte di Legno, Italy

Ponte di Legno (Pònt in the Camunian dialect) is an Italian comune of 1,729 inhabitants in Val Camonica, province of Brescia, in Lombardy.

Varenna, Italy

Varenna is a comune (municipality) on Lake Como in the Province of Lecco in the Italian region Lombardy, located about 60 kilometers (37 mi) north of Milan and about 20 kilometers (12 mi) northwest of Lecco.

Milan, Italy

Milan is a city in northern Italy, capital of Lombardy, and the second-most populous city in Italy after Rome, with the city proper having a population of 1,366,037 while its province-level municipality has a population of 3,235,000. Its continuously built-up urban area (that stretches beyond the boundaries of the Metropolitan City of Milan) has a population estimated to be about 5,270,000 over 1,891 square kilometers (730 square miles), ranking 4th in the European Union. The wider Milan metropolitan area, known as Greater Milan, is a polycentric metropolitan region that extends over central Lombardy and eastern Piedmont and which counts an estimated total population of 7.5 million, making it by far the largest metropolitan area in Italy. Milan served as capital of the Western Roman Empire from 286 to 402 and the Duchy of Milan during the middle and early modern age.

Venice, Italy

Fly back to the United Kingdom.

Gatwick, England

Rest before returning home.

Oakland, USA

Back to the USA and the land of crazed and selfish Republicans.

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